Oia, Santorini - Blue Domes, Architecture & Sunsets

We took a late afternoon trip to Oia (EE ah) and it was the ultimate in OMG moments!  Oia is the source of most of the spectacular photos published about Santorini, and our walking tour did not disappoint.  Oia is on the northern most point of Santorini and mostly facing the caldera.  At the most northern point you can see clearly to the west and around to the north, making that point a spectacular vantage point for any sunset.  Thousands (OK, maybe hundreds) joined us for the sunset.

Oia typifies classic Greek island architecture with whitewashed walls and blue domed churches.  Cycladic and cave houses are carved into the rock face of the cliff.  Most houses are painted white with blue trim, and only this combination or pastels are allowed. This is tightly controlled on all of Santorini.  The blue and white are the colors of the Greek flag, and the white is quite practical to keep buildings cool in the intensity of the summer sun.  The houses are painted in white lime water so that the rainwater that runs over it can be collected and used.

We stayed for the sunset and managed to snag a table in a small cafe facing west about a hour before.  Some of our group came in after us and we sat together waiting for the sunset.  There was a group of 20 something's filling the tables outside in this small cafe and they were there for the same reason.  We grabbed a small table inside by the only window and had a great view plus a pleasant breeze.  We ordered some crepes done Greek style and it was served with a delicious plate of sliced olives.  That was so good we ordered a second crepe filled with chocolate.    The food was great and then we enjoyed one of the best sunsets we have ever seen.

There is much more to know about Oia.  See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oia,_Greece for more information.  Following are a few of our favorite photos taken in Oia.  The full set will be uploaded to the photo library later.  This a photo set to be sure and see.

Fira on the cliffs in the far distance. 

Exploring Fira, Santorini

After settling into our hotel, we were off on a walking tour of Fira, the capital of Santorini.  Fira was just a short 10 minute walk down the road in front of the hotel and we were looking out over the caldera and another OMG moment.  The road runs along the top of Fira (mostly), so the bulk of the city is below the road level.  As we reached the edge of the town we then climbed farther up the hill to a major pedestrian walkway running along the rim of the caldera.  Fira descends down the hill from your path all the way to the water.

Words do not adequately describe the view nor the beauty.  So following are a few favorite photos from a much larger set that I will upload when I have adequate wifi service.  This is a photo set to not miss.

Fira rambling on along the rim.  In the far distance, Oia, subject of a future post.

The island in the center is actually the crater of the volcano, which is still active.  Typical scene along the walkway.

Terraces everywhere, all built to maximize and enjoy the spectacular view.

Cafés and restaurants like this are all along the rim, offering fantastic views and good food and drink.

Oia in the distance.

Akrotiri, Santorini - Was it Atlantis?

The archeological site at Akrotiri is the best known Minoan site outside of Crete. Excavation started there in 1967 and to date only the southern tip of a large town has been uncovered.  The excavation site is completely covered with a building that allows in natural light and no artificial lights are used.  The building was built to protect the site against further deterioration from the elements, especially as the excavation progresses. Our guide said the building cost about 40 million euros to build. 

The buildings excavated so far are up to 3 and 4 stories high. Of course ground level today is at the top floors so we were walking around at that level looking down into the town.  The Bronze Age civilization that lived there thrived between 2000-1380 BC, and from the archeological evidence traded with other cultures and were a wealthy people.  The streets and squares were decorated with colors and the interiors of the homes and buildings were painted with frescos.  The city had a sophisticated water drainage system and water closets were found as some of the oldest anywhere.  Twin water pipes run throughout the city for both hot and cold running water with geothermal heating for the hot water.  The dual water pipe system, advanced archetecture, and apparent layout resemble Plato's description of the lost city of Atlantis. Many believe the Minoans inspired the Atlantis legend. 

The well-preserved ruins of Akrotiri are compared to the ruins at Pompeii in Italy. One huge difference however is that no human remains have been found at Akrotiri. This is probably because the inhabitants had early warning of the danger through small earthquakes preceding the huge volcanic eruption that destroyed the city. With enough warning they were able to escape.   The positioning of furniture and other items indicate the inhabitants thought they would return. 

Our guide was a young woman with her Masters degree in Archeology of the Byzantine period. While the Minoan era was not her speciality, she was extremely informative and knowledgeable.  She said the excavation was suspended currently die to the lack of money in Greece and the overall global recession. We have heard that at all of the archeological sites so it aes to be widespread. She did not say it directly, but we suspected she was working as an expert guide for a job and her archeological work was unavailable. 

There is much more to know about Akrotiri. If you are interested, click on the following link for Santorini and scroll down to the History section. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santorini

A view of the overall site and the building covering it.

A partially excavated street with the exterior of a building on the right.  Notice the layers in the volcanic material where it has been cut for removal.  Another building is visible on the left but with several feet of volcanic material yet to be removed.

Partially excavated street on the right and partially excavated buildings/houses straight ahead.  We are standing at like the 2nd or 3rd floor. 

Street,running between two rows of buildings.  Notice the open trench at the far right.  That is part of the drainage system for the city.

Third level of a home with a toilet built not the wall on the right.  The toilet has a seat and a drainage pipe running down and passes through a turn to control odors returning up the pipe.  

House of the ladies from the front.

Hotel El Greco, Santorini

Our hotel on Santorini was beautiful and as good as the professional photos on the hotel website.  When we stopped n front of the front door, we all had another OMG moment taking in the view in front of the hotel. Below is a sample of what we saw out the front every day.

The lobby and internal areas were beautiful as well.  There were three different large pools each in a different section of the grounds.  Surrounding each pool was a collection of rooms.  Our room was around the second pool where the restaurant and bar were also located.  Below are a few photos of the grounds.

The rooms were very stark but very typical if what you would expect of a Mediterranean room.  The walls were cream colored with no wall decoration but one painting (mural actually) over the bed.  The windows and doors were wooden and opened horizontally into the room to bring in air.  No screens on the windows and none needed as we never saw a fly or bug.  The evening air was really nice and we slept with the windows open each night.  It felt great!

The hotel was great and we enjoyed it.  Our only complaints were that our room was located next to the kitchen, which was a bit noisy late evening and early morning, and the wifi was very slow.  Otherwise it was great.  The pools were beautiful, but we only spent a couple of hours laying around them as we had too much to see.  The water temp in the pools was very brisk as they fill them often from the desalinated water source.  The water never has time to really warm.  But we only used them once.  

Santos Wine Tour, Santorini

We arrived at our hotel in Santorini before our rooms were ready, so we stored our bags and joined the trip to the Santos Winery.  Our guide had said the views from the winery were spectacular, and he was right!  It was one of many OMG moments!  Below is the view as we approached the main gate of the winery.

The wine tour was the usual walk through the crushing area, then on to where the sediment is drained and collected, and then to fementation.  For the reds we saw the barrels for aging, and then finally bottling. But what made this tour more interesting was to learn about the different technique needed to grow grapes in Santorini.  Because the climate is so dry and the sun intense, the grape vines are not strung up on trellises as in most places.  Instead, the vines are trained into a circle on the ground, about the size of a  wreath you might put on your door for the holidays.  The leaves of the plants are kept on the outside and the fruit is in the middle under the protection of the vines and leaves.  This protects the fruit and each night the plant collects some moisture  as the ground cools from the heat of the day.  The fields of grape vines with circles on the ground are strange at first, but you see them everywhere on Santorini.  It is a technique unique to the island.

At the end of the tour we gathered on a beautiful terrace for lunch and tastings of three of the Santos wines.  Again the views were fantastic!  White wine is is their best product and we enjoyed trying their offerings.  Below are a few of the photos from the terrace.  Watch for the full set to be uploaded to the photo library.

Below is the caldera with Fira at the upper right and Oia at the farthest point north.  The dries ship is anchored directly in front of Fira.  Notice the sediment layers visible in the side of the cliffs.

Below is the volcano crater, standing above the water as it's own island.  In the distance is another island that was once part of Santorini when it was a circular island.  

Enjoying the OMG views, with Fira visible in the rim.

 

Leaving Crete, Arriving Santorini

After a fun, but too short visit on Crete, we were off by ferry to Santorini.  Crete has much more to offer than we had time to see and experience, so we will plan to return in the future.  We were sad to leave Crete, but excited to be on our way to Santorini.  Below is Crete disappearing in the wake of the ferry.

The ferry trip was about 2 hours and then Santorini began appearing.  Santorini is a much smaller island than Crete and is a crescent shape, having formerly been round before the volcano erupted about 3600 years ago in the Minoan eruption that destroyed part of the western side of the island.  Now on the western side are tall cliffs overlooking the caldera, with the crater of the volcano visible on a small island across the caldera from the main island.

Along the rim of the cliffs facing the caldera and in the middle of the coast is Fira (FEE rah), the capital of Santorini.  Our hotel, the El Greco, was just south of Fira and within walking distance.  South of the hotel along the rim of the cliffs is the Santos winery where we took the wine tour.  More about that in a subsequent post.  On the most northern edge of the cliffs and facing the caldera is the picturesque town of Oia (pronounced EE ah, shown as Ia on the map above) where most of the famous photos of Santorini have originated.  

Santorini is mostly volcanic and has been rocked by frequent earthquakes over the centuries.  (You can see the many levels of sediment and volcanic material in the photos of the cliffs.) This has affected its culture, architecture, and history.  The soil is a volcanic material that hold moisture, what little it gets in this arid climate.  It only rains in the winter months, and rainfall is limited.  There is only one stream on the island at the one small mountain that exists, and it is insufficient to supply the island.  Drilling for underground water is also futile, so the island uses desalinated water that is trucked around the island and delivered like fuel oil is done back in the US.  Houses have a cistern that can capture rainwater, but is normally filled from these tanker deliveries.  Those living in very high and scenic areas also pay more for the water as it is harder to deliver. Consequently, bottled water is common for drinking.  The desalinated water is safe to drink but is used mostly for showers and swimming pools.  It has a slightly salty taste.

The economy of Santorini is dependent primarily on tourism, and they are very happy to have tourists and treat them well.  The island also produces a unique quality of grape due to the soil and weather conditions, so they also make and export a very nice and unique white Santorini wine. They grow wonderful tomatoes and cucumbers, each of which also have a rich and unique flavor.  Otherwise, most all other goods are imported to the island.  

Before arriving in Santorini, our guide Roberto had said we would have many "Oh my God" moments with the views.  He was more right than we all knew and it became our collective response when we would see something new or return from an outing to a new place.  Someone would say "how was it?", and the response was alway "Oh my God".  In the subsequent posts I will insert a few key photos.  But to appreciate our time in Santorini, take the time to see all of the Santorini photos once I have uploaded them to the photo library.

You can read more on Santorini and it's history at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santorini.

Hania (Chania) Day Trip

The coastal drive from Heraklion to Hania (also spelled Chania) along the northern coast of Crete was really beautiful.  The sea and the villages along the coast are scenic and interesting, and would be fun to explore were we driving ourselves and had plenty of time.  But this trip was part of the tour and we made the trip in a large motor coach.  While you sit high in a motor coach and can see well, photos are not very good out the coach windows.  I attempted some but have thrown away most.  The ones that were decent will be in the album of Hania photos I will upload later.  Below is the view approaching Hania.

Once in Hania we strolled though the market before making our way to the harbor for lunch.  The color of the sea all around these islands is a spectacular deep, clear blue that is hard to describe but is distinctive and beautiful.  When we walked out into the harbor area, we were all stunned at how beautiful the harbor appeared, both the color of the water and the cafés and shops all around the perimeter.  Everyone was snapping photos and trying to take it all in.  Finally we got settled into our tables at a cafe where lunch had been pre-arranged, and we sat there enjoying lunch and the beautiful harbor.  Below is a photo of the market and a couple from the harbor.

The Venetians occupied Greece during part of Greece's history, and part of Hania's architecture is very similar to Venice.  Likewise, the Turks also occupied Greece for some periods of time and there are Turkish influences remaining in Hania as well. Our guide walked us throug some areas where we could see both.  Below is an example of the Venetian influence in Hania.

On the return trip to Heraklion we stopped by a small village that was the birthplace of El Greco, where there is a small monument to him.  The old women in this village also do macrame and they were selling their goods in the street.  Linda found a good deal on a purse and had to make a purchase.  There is also an oak tree there that the guide said was over 1000 years old.  Hard to know if that is true or not, but it was a hallowed out, strange looking tree and we all had a picture taken in it.

Knossos, The Ruins of the Palace of Minos

Crete is full of ancient history and is home to the oldest city in Europe, Knossos.  At Knossos are the ruins of the ancient Palace of Minos, king of the Minoans.  The palace was first excavated and partially restored in the earliest years of the 20th century, amd is the largest Bronze Age archeological site on the island of Crete.  The first settlement of Minoans dates back to 7000 BC, and the earliest palace to 1900 BC.  To learn more about Knossos and the palace, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knossos.  

The palace was a huge structure that served as more than just a residence for the monarch.  With roughly 1300 rooms, connected by corridors of varying sizes snd directions, it covers more than 6 acres.  Built gradually from 1700 BC to 1400 BC, it was facing a river that was navigable at that time and the palace had a river entrance.  Today that river is merely a small stream.

The palace had 3 separate water management systems, one for supply,  one for drainage/runoff, and one for sewage.  The sewer systems was a closed system of drainage to carry th sewage safely away from the city.  The queen's quarters contained a water flushing toilet with a seat that was flushed by pouring water from a jug into the toilet.  The water supply system used a series of terra cotta type tiles with a large and a small end that were fitted small end of one into large end of another, forming a sealed supply pipe that also controlled and maintained water pressure.  From these and other innovations found on the site, these were very clever and advanced people.

The site is not a lot to see right now and the guide was essential to explain the history and what has been learned.  Below are a couple of photos of the site, of the queen's room with wall paintings, and a drawing showing how the palace may have appeared.  

Crete

After two quick days in Athens we were off by plane to Crete, with an early morning call at 5:30 to make an early flight.  Crete is the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, the fifth-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It forms a significant part of the economy and cultural heritage of Greece while retaining its own local cultural traits (such as its own poetry and music). Crete was once the center of the Minoan civilization (c. 2700–1420 BC), which is currently regarded as the earliest recorded civilization in Europe.  Our hotel was in Heralion, the capital of Crete.  

The hotel was quite nice and our room had a nice balcony overlooking balconies of apartment buildings behind us as well as the streets below.  In the distance we could see the sea over the buildings.  The food served in the hotel was better than in the hotel in Athens and we enjoyed a nice group dinner the first evening, with breakfast served everyday, included with the room as is the European style.

During out stay in Crete we took two excursions, one to see the ruins at Knossos (in the central center of the island), and the second a full day trip to Chania, west on the northern coast.  I will post separately on each of those excursions.

We enjoyed our short stay on Crete and only wish there has been time to explore more of the island as we saw none of the southern coast or cities.  We found a couple of nice restaurants near the hotel and the last evening ate in one where they took us back into the kitchen to show us what they had prepared for the evening so that we could select our meals.  Apparently this is their normal way of doing business.  The food was great!